The six applications occur every four to six weeks, depending upon the start of the season and certain other climatological conditions.
Yes. The schedule of watering may change, depending on the product applied and time of year, but irrigation is always required to activate and move the product.
We recommend that the applied products be watered in and dry before you allow extensive use of the treated area by pets or children. If the pet is going out and coming right in, we would anticipate no problem with that. If we are using a product that has a higher risk for exposure, we will coordinate the application to maintain a safe environment for you, your family, and your pets.
To minimize the damage that fungus can cause, we recommend that you employ correct cultural practices in the part you play in caring for your lawn. Aerate the yard at least once a year. Aeration reduces soil compaction. Mow regularly with a sharp blade. This reduces thatch build up and minimizes injury to individual plants. To achieve optimal benefit from irrigation, water early in the day (preferably before noon) when the temperature and wind are at their lowest. Depending on the amount of rainfall, depth of irrigation as well as frequency of irrigation will vary. Your turf may require treatment with a fungicide in order to control the disease process.
There is no single answer to this question. The types of grass plants present in the lawn, soil conditions, and the amounts and types of fertilizer used are all variables. While a difference in the color of your lawn compared to another lawn may be an indication of a problem, it may be nothing more than a reflection of the variables mentioned above, alone or in combination. We can perform soil test to determine if any macro or micronutrients are missing that might affect color.
We prefer that mowing wait until after the product(s) are watered in and dry. If you must mow, do not "bag" the lawn.
Our product is formulated to control crab grass and certain other grassy weeds. The control is achieved with two successive spring applications. The plants germinate and the pre-emergent product then acts against the roots and shoots of the plant material. The product does not control broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions.
Dandelions are perennial weeds whose seeds spread on the wind, taking root in bare areas of turf. The best defense against dandelions is a dense stand of healthy turf. When they are found in the turf, they are best controlled by a post-emergent product in the fall of the year. Post-emergent applications at other times of the year may be successful in destroying the visible parts of the plant which can be of some help.
There are different strategies that lawn care companies use to control weeds. We have always supported the practice of using the proper amount of chemical to treat the infected area. Have you ever had an x-ray for a broken arm? Did the doctor take an x-ray of your entire body or just the broken arm? We use the same theory. In most cases, spot spraying individual weeds provides the control we are seeking. We will spray the entire property only if the concentration of weed material merits that approach.
Water needs vary depending on several factors such as sun exposure, type of turf, soil composition, slope of the terrain, seasonality and the type of irrigation heads. Watering needs vary from turf to landscape as well. During the early spring and late fall, your lawn may need only 0.5 inch of water per week but, in the very hot and windy conditions of summer, this may increase to 2 inches per week. Rotor heads will apply approximately 0.33 - 0.5 inches of water per hour. Spray heads will apply approximately 1.75 – 2 inches of water per hour. This is why your rotor zones will usually need to water 3 - 4 times longer than your spray zones to provide equal precipitation rates. There are entire books written on soil absorption rates and plant coefficients, so we normally recommend some general guidelines coupled with common sense.
Part of our job is training you to program and adjust your controller. In most cases, this is done before we leave your property. Also, most controllers have a set of instructions on the inside of the controller door. The owner’s manual serves as a complete guide to operating the controller. Go to www.hunterindustries.com and www.rainbird.com if you would like to visit the manufacturers' latest information about controllers.
You do not have to do anything if you have a rain sensor installed. The rain sensor will shut off the system when the designated amount of moisture is collected in the sensor. If you do not have a sensor, turning the dial on your controller to the “off” position will shut off your system.
The system can usually be turned on towards the end of April or when temperatures consistently exceed 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
If you do not have sprinkler heads with check valves installed, the system is self-draining to the extent water will naturally flow out of the heads due to the slope of the terrain. The valves are self-draining as they have a reverse pressure drain in the valve box. The drain opens up when the water is shut off. If you do have heads with check valves installed, the system is not self draining. Either way, we strongly recommend having the system completely winterized and evaluated each year.
Yes! It is good idea to have Cutting Edge drain and blow out your system at the end of every watering season. Please call our office at 218-838-8248 to schedule this service. Our systems include drains, but blowing out your system insures there is no water left in the system and that all your lines, valves, and PVB will be ready for spring. If you do have heads with check valves installed, the system is not self draining.
The answer depends on your current practices. If you are not watering currently because you do not want to or are unable to drag hoses, then the answer is yes. If you currently water your lawn in the evening or afternoon when it is windy and hot, or leave your sprinkler running for longer than necessary to accommodate your schedule, then you are potentially wasting water. Various environmental conditions limit the amount of water the turf receives or can absorb at any given time. The beauty of your new irrigation system is that it can be programmed to apply the correct amount of moisture to each turf zone at the time of day when the temperatures are lower and winds are minimal. This will maximize the effectiveness of the water you are using. Although seeding and turf renovation projects will require watering beyond normal requirements, the application of the water can be just as efficient at that time as well.
There will be minor damage to most turf areas. Before beginning the job, we will tell you if we expect any areas to incur noticeable damage. Areas with shallow tree roots will usually need complete renovation after a sprinkler system installation. Generally, if a new irrigation system is used as directed, the yard is able to repair itself in as little as three weeks.
Most residential properties will require the use of a pipe puller that makes a ¼ inch path in the turf as it vibrates the polyethylene (poly) pipe into the turf. Some larger residential properties and commercial projects require a trenching machine to allow crews to place and glue polyvinyl chloride (pvc) pipe. Shovels are used to dig holes for heads and to connect pipe.
We adjust your system for you as part of the installation and will review your system for adjustment as needed. Many systems operate for years without requiring adjusting. Depending on the system you purchased it should require minimal adjustment on your part; however, we try to show you how to adjust your heads before we leave your property.
Unless other arrangements are made, Cutting Edge will flag your irrigation heads if Cutting Edge aerates your lawn. The irrigation heads should always be flagged before aerating.
Cutting Edge mainly uses poly pipe in residential applications. It is very durable and expandable. PVC pipe is used in some residential and commercial projects.